LED

Retrofits
LED Retrofit

Replacing High Pressure Sodium and Metal Halide Bulbs with LED Retrofits

MyLEDLightingGuide offers LED Retrofit Kits that allows you to replace the Metal Halide, High Pressure Sodium or Mercury Vapor bulbs and ballasts in your existing fixtures. Retrofitting is no more difficult than a bulb and ballast replacement.

Our kits are designed to install into the existing HID fixtures such as High Bays, Canopy Garage Fixtures, Wall Packs, Flood Lights, Street Lights, High Masts and more. The basic criteria is that your existing fixture has to be large enough to accommodate the LED retrofit kit.

The experts at MyLEDLightingGuide.com will help you decide whether our retrofit kits are right for you. 


To see our complete list of retrofit solutions that allows us to convert Metal Halide, High Pressure Sodium or Mercury Vapor and allow you to keep your fixture, Click Here
  Parking Lot retrofit

Hospital retrofit

 

Retrofit Kits to replace 400W Metal Halide or HPS

30W LED Retro Unit

Type: LED Retro Kits
Watts: 30
Lumens: 3830
Replaces: up to 150W HID
Color Temperature: 4000K | 4500K | 5000K
Color Rendering Index (CRI): 75+
Rated Life: 100,000+ (L70), Driver 50,000 hrs
Working Voltage: 100-277 | 347-480 VAC
Warranty: 10 Year Warranty - LED Module and 5 Year Warranty - Driver


45W LED Retro Unit

Type: LED Retro Kits
Watts: 45
Lumens: 5897
Replaces: up to 175W HID
Color Temperature: 4000K | 4500K | 5000K (Standard)
Color Rendering Index (CRI): 75+
Rated Life: 100,000+ (L70), Driver 50,000 hrs
Working Voltage: 100-277 | 347-480 [HV]
Warranty: 10 Year Warranty - LED Module and 5 Year Warranty - Driver


60W LED Retro Unit

Type: LED Retro Kits
Watts: 60
Lumens: 8,238
Replaces: up to 250W HID
Color Temperature: 4000K | 4500K | 5000K (Standard)
Color Rendering Index (CRI): 75+
Rated Life: 100,000+ (L70), Driver 50,000 hrs
Working Voltage: 100-277 | 347-480 [HV]
Warranty: 10 Year Warranty - LED Module and 5 Year Warranty - Driver


75W LED Retro Unit

Type: LED Retro Kits
Watts: 75
Lumens: 9,793
Replaces: up to 250W Plus HID
Color Temperature: 4000K | 4500K | 5000K (Standard)
Color Rendering Index (CRI): 75+
Rated Life: 100,000+ (L70), Driver 50,000 hrs
Working Voltage: 100-277 | 347-480 [HV]
Warranty: 10 Year Warranty - LED Module and 5 Year Warranty - Driver


Why should I retrofit instead of using a new fixture?

If you have an existing fixture that is in good condition, retrofitting allows you to take advantage of converting over to LED while reducing the cost of converting by 30%-50% over replacing with a new fixture.

It's not only the cost of the fixture, many people forget that there are costs associated with disposing the existing fixture.

We often hear from our customers that replacing was more expensive than they thought and in hind-sight they wish they would have retrofitted.
 


In some cases you may have an expensive architectural fixture. It does not make sense to try to replace this fixture with a similar or identical 'expensive' LED version of that fixture.

Our kits allow you to replace the bulb and ballast in your existing fixture.
 

In some locations, permits and approvals are required to change the existing fixture over to a new fixture. When you retrofit
instead of replace, you can often bypass these steps, once again saving you time and money.

 

I heard that retrofit kits do not last as long as LED's in new fixtures?

  We heard this too, and it mostly comes from new fixture manufacturers who have a vested interest in selling you a new fixture. We sell new fixtures as well. We explain the pros and cons of both. But in terms of longevity of product, there is no reason why a LED retrofit can't last as long if not longer than a LED fixture. In fact, our retrofits our warrantied for 10 years! If the product wasn't suppose to last long, then the warranty would be much shorter. As long as you follow the instructions in the kit, there is no reason to think that the retrofit kit won't last as long as a new fixture.

The most important factor to ensure your LED investment will last is good engineering that ensures the product can dissipate the heat properly and keep the electronics cool. The best way to achieve this is to have a separate ballast and bulb package. Our retrofit kits accomplish this, we have external drivers and led heads. If you take apart a brand new fixture, you will see a similar package: LED head and external driver.
 

Fans or no fans?

  This seems to be an even bigger point of false concern. We have heard that fans are bad, and the better solution is a large heavy heat sink. We have heard that 'fans fail'.

We have been selling LED retrofit kits for over 5 years. We have yet to see one fan failure. Let me repeat that, "NOT ONE FAN FAILURE".

In fact, here is the argument why fans are in fact a good thing.
 

You have an existing fixture, and inside this sealed fixture you install a LED head and a driver, without a fan. What you need to remember is that the best part of the fixture in terms of heat sink is the fixture itself. So if you have a fixture with a fan, the air circulates, moves the hot air off the face and heat sink, and moves it to the fixture itself. A passive system 'radiates' it heat to the external fixture, a far less effective method of removing heat. We also know that creating air movement over the face of the LED board is also helpful in extending the life of the product. An enclosed IP65 fixture does not allow for air movement, all movement is caused by radiant heat. With a fan, you have a natural air flow on the inside of the fixture, moving air over the face.

One point that always seems to be missed. When you buy a computer or laptop, it has a fan, sometimes many, to keep the electronics cool. Many electronic components we buy today contain fans. And yet, would you rather purchase a laptop that had a fan to keep the CPU cool or would you rather purchase one without one (if you could find one). Most people would think it was silly to purchase a laptop without a fan, and yet there are some people who would want you to believe fans on LEDs are a bad thing.
 

 

The good thing about MyLEDLightingGuide is we sell LEDs with and without fans, and we understand the difference. If we thought fans were bad, we wouldn't offer them.


Retrofit Kits to replace 1000W Metal Halide or HPS

280W LED Retro Unit

Type: LED Retro Kits
Watts: 280
Lumens: 35,338
Replaces: up to 1000W HID < 30 FT
Color Temperature: 4000K | 4500K | 5000K (Standard)
Color Rendering Index (CRI): 75+
Rated Life: 100,000+ (L70), Driver 50,000 hrs
Working Voltage: 100-277 | 347-480 [HV]
Warranty: 10 Year Warranty - LED Module and 5 Year Warranty - Drive


320W LED Retro Unit

Type: LED Retro Kits
Watts: 320
Lumens: 40,565
Replaces: up to 1000W HID
Color Temperature: 4000K | 4500K | 5000K (Standard)
Color Rendering Index (CRI): 75+
Rated Life: 100,000+ (L70), Driver 50,000 hrs
Working Voltage: 100-277 | 347-480 [HV]
Warranty:10 Year - LED Module and 5 Year - Driver


350W LED Retro Unit

Type: LED Retro Kits
Watts: 350
Lumens: 42,215
Replaces: up to 1000W HID Pus
Color Temperature: 4000K | 4500K | 5000K (Standard)
Color Rendering Index (CRI): 75+
Rated Life: 100,000+ (L70), Driver 50,000 hrs
Working Voltage: 100-277 | 347-480 [HV]
Warranty: 10 Year - LED Module and 5 Year - Driver


What are the steps to retrofit an existing HID Fixture?

Turn off the power to the existing fixture

Remove the bulb and ballast from the fixture

Remove the reflector (assuming that the reflector is not part of the fixtures waterproof seal)

Install the LED driver in the location of the HID ballast. Wire the driver to the electrical wire that was used to power the ballast

 

Install the LED Retrofit head. Wire the output of the driver to the two wires on the LED head.

Aim the head in the fixture to where you want the light distributed

Remove the plastic cover protecting the head. It is only meant to protect the LEDs during transportation.

Turn the power back on.

 

Note: you can use motion detectors and daylight sensors with our LED Retrofit heads. It will NOT affect the life of the LED product.

What are the available voltages?

 We have 2 driver options

  • 100-277V
  • 347-480V

 

Can you dim a LED retrofit?

Yes,  we can provide an optional dimmable driver. It is a 0-10V driver, and is compatible with 0-10V switches or control systems. You can also set up our kits to do bi-level dimming.

 

LED Retrofit Kit Replacement Guide

ModelWattsCRILumensReplacesHoursWarrantyUSAULETLDLCRebate Eligible
35W LED Mini Retro Unit - 2800 Lumens3575+2900up to 100W HID100,0006   
45W LED Mini Retro Unit - 3900 Lumens4575+3900150W HID100,0006   
60W LED Retro Unit6075+8,238up to 250W HID100,000+ (L70), Driver 50,00010    
75W LED Retro Unit7575+9,793up to 250W Plus HID100,000+ (L70), Driver 50,00010    
105W LED Retro Unit10575+14,528up to 400W HID100,000+ (L70), Driver 50,00010    
110W LED Retro Unit - 11000 Lumens11075+11,300up to 400W HID100,0006   
120W LED Retro Unit12075+16,212up to 400W HID100,000+ (L70), Driver 50,00010    
150W LED Retro Unit15075+20,659up to 400W+ HID100,000+ (L70), Driver 50,00010    
200W LED Retro Unit - 19000 Lumens20075+19,000up to 600W HID100,0006   
200W LED Retro Unit20075+26,376up to 500W Plus HID100,000+ (L70), Driver 50,00010    
280W LED Retro Unit28075+35,338up to 1000W HID100,000+ (L70), Driver 50,00010    
320W LED Retro Unit32075+40,565up to 1000W HID100,000+ (L70), Driver 50,00010    
350W LED Retro Unit35075+42,215up to 1000W HID Plus100,000+ (L70), Driver 50,00010    
LED Retrofit Kit - 2x2 or 2x4 Fixtures35 - 60853500 - 6500219,00010   
LED High Bay Retrofit150 - 18070+19,500 - 23,400up to 400W HID100,0005    
Exit Sign Retrofit Kit2> 80N/Aincadescent exit signs100,0005  

 

Top 3 Reasons you should convert with LED Retrofits

  • Reduced energy costs: our Industrial Strength LED Lights use approximately 25% of the electricity HID lights use.
  • Reduced maintenance cost: our long life LED Retrofits are rated for 70,000 + hours. That means no years of service before you have to think of replacing the lights.
  • Reduced project costs: use your existing fixtures saves you money since we can reuse them with a retrofit solution.

 

Applications

  • Sports Stadiums
  • Parking Lots / Parking Garages
  • Hospitals
  • Schools
  • Roadways / Interstate
  • Prisons
  • Terminals
  • Warehouses
  • Factories
  • Airports

 

Replacing Fluorescent Tubes with LED Tubes

MyLEDLightingGuide offers LED Tubes to replace fluorescent tubes in their existing fixtures, whether they are T5, T8, T10 or T12 fluorescent tubes. All our tubes are either UL/cUL Listed or ETL/cETL Listed. We offer USA Made, ARRA Compiant Tubes, as well as DesignLights Consortium Tubes, that are entitled to utility rebates.

 LED Tube Retrofit in workshop

 

What are the steps to retrofit an existing Fluorescent Fixture with our LED Tubes?

  1. Turn off the power to the existing fixture
  2. Remove the bulb and ballast from the fixture.
  3. Rewire the fixture so that each tombstone on one end has both a line and neutral wire hooked up to line and neutral coming into the fixture. Power is ony required to one tombstone, the other side remains unpowered.
  4. Install the LED tube into the fixture.
  5. Turn the power back on.

 

Please note: single ended powered tubes require an unshunted tombstone. An unshunted tombstone allows for 2 wires to be connected to it, one for line and the other for neutral. The other tombstone is left unpowered.

Before ordering tubes from MyLEDLightingGuide, confirm whether or not you have unshunted tombstones. If not, we can provide them to you at a small cost.

Note: you can use motion detectors and daylight sensors with our LED Tubes. It will NOT affect the life of the LED Tube.

Fluorescent Tube Replacement Guide

ModelWattsCRILumensReplacesHoursWarrantyUSAULETLDLCRebate Eligible
LED Tube Light 4 Foot 15W/18W/20W DLC15 | 18 | 2080+1,575-2,100 (depending on wattage and color)32W + T8, T10 or T1250,0005   
Ballast Compatible 18W 4 FT T8 LED Tube1883191432W + T8, T10 or T12500005   
LED Tube Light 4 Foot 18W DLC1880+1,900-2,000 (depending on wattage and color)32W + T8, T10 or T1250,0005   
USA Made 4 ft LED Tube Light1880+1880-200032W + T8, T10 or T1250,0005 
LED T8 Tube Light 4 Foot External Driver1880+185032W + T8, T10 or T1250,0003   
LED Tube 4 Foot 22W UL DLC22862020 | 231032W + T8, T10 or T12500005   
LED Tube 2 Foot 10W UL DLC1086910 | 1080 (depending on Color Temp)17W + T8, T10 or T12500005   
LED T5 Tube2880+2800-320054W T5 HO50,0005   
LED Tube 8 Foot 36W and 44W UL Listed36 | 44863500 | 420080W + T8, T10 or T12500005    
Ballast Compatible U Bend LED Tube 18W18> 80177532W UBend500003    
U Bend LED Tube 18W18> 80177532W UBend500003    

Top 10 Reasons to Convert from Fluorescent Tubes to LED Tubes

  1. They do not require ballasts. LED Tubes have drivers
  2. They are rated for 50,000 hours
  3. They do not contain mercury or PCBs
  4. They do not require special and costly disposal processes at the end of their life
  5. Their life is not affected when hooked to a motion sensor
  6. They do not contain glass and are safe in food preparation areas.
  7. They maintain their lumens better over their life as compared to fluorescent tubes.
  8. Their light is directional: no wasted lumens. You get to light up what needs to be lit up.
  9. They do not require reflectors to focus the lumens created.
  10. They do not flicker - common source of issues like eye strain and headaches

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